is there a good shop around here?

[brown7]

i was skimming over the dragstrip advertisors just for a clue.. I deploy this summer some time and figured its the best time to start saving haha..

i either want to forge/stroke maybe? the engine or just jump straight to super/turbo and use pretty mild mild boost. word of the street is a stock mach is capable of holding 7-8psi and with a good tune.

any recommendations or is this town so dry i am going to have to drop my car off in austin when i deploy? :D

[Mustangfreak]

I'll look after it :look:

[Speeddmn]

i would advice since its a mach to stroke and poke it. stay n/a and shoot for 350 to 375 at the tires have the car go on a small diet and it will be fast.

also as far as work to it concerned i suggest NEP (neverenuff performance)

[Black_Bullitt]

+1 to NEP, lol

[01yellowgt]

where is NEP located?

[Black_Bullitt]

where is NEP located?Matt's garage, lol.

(NeverEnuff = Matt)

[01yellowgt]

wasnt thinking about that, lol, was thinking there was actually a business named NeverEnuff Performance. I just don't feel comfortable welding on my car. Got subframes, torque box reinforcements, arb and want to have the axle tubes welded. Then other stuff to just throw on.

[Mustangfreak]

wasnt thinking about that, lol, was thinking there was actually a business named NeverEnuff Performance. I just don't feel comfortable welding on my car. Got subframes, torque box reinforcements, arb and want to have the axle tubes welded. Then other stuff to just throw on.

Money talks with Matt I'm sure :look:

[Speeddmn]

Money talks with Matt I'm sure :look:

Or go to tractor supply and find the 200$+ orange welding helmet and I'm sure you'd get free welding for life!

[01yellowgt]

sent him a pm

[NeverEnuff]

I can weld sir. Biut I need a new welder if you want it to look good. I don't want to do Flux Core welding on your car.

I will have a new welder here in a few weeks with Gas and then we can tear into your chit.

I will be copyrighting that name here soon. Need to before someone else does it.

[01yellowgt]

sounds good, no rush

[SeeingRed]

i was skimming over the dragstrip advertisors just for a clue.. I deploy this summer some time and figured its the best time to start saving haha..

i either want to forge/stroke maybe? the engine or just jump straight to super/turbo and use pretty mild mild boost. word of the street is a stock mach is capable of holding 7-8psi and with a good tune.

any recommendations or is this town so dry i am going to have to drop my car off in austin when i deploy? :D

As far as the motor in the Mach goes, the BIGGEST weak spot is your rods. They're crap, powdered metal rods. I'm assuming yours is a 5-speed, so you've already got the forged crank. For less than a grand you can have a fully forged bottom end with what ever pistons you want (keep higher compression if you want to stay N/A, or some dished pistons if you want to go with a blower or turbo). After that you're good to go.

[brown7]

bottom end is what, crank, rods and pistons?
and word on the street replace the pos oil pump while its open.

if i stay the same compression ratio i should expect the same hp amirite?

cant decide on what i want to do further on down the road.. turbo/super are so frickin expensive. but atleast if i get mah shits forged i can spray?

[NeverEnuff]

bottom end is what, crank, rods and pistons?
and word on the street replace the pos oil pump while its open.

if i stay the same compression ratio i should expect the same hp amirite?

cant decide on what i want to do further on down the road.. turbo/super are so frickin expensive. but atleast if i get mah shits forged i can spray?



For you all you need is Rods and Pistons.

It would be fine to find a good set of take out rods (ie forged from a cobra 03/04 or a rebuilt motor that someone is going billet to handle more power). Just make sure it wasn't due to failure why you are getting the parts so cheap. Find something, send me a PM or whatever and Ill let you know.

There is NOTHING wrong with your oil pump that comes in the Mach. Hell I should know. Ive had the same oil pump in my car for my 7000rpm N/A build, then the 450rwhp 7000rpms P1, 550rwhp-ish D1 build and the TT 650+rwhp 7000rpm build. WOrking just fine. Just make sure you get a good big and heavy blancer and you will be fine. You can also buy some billet gears for a few hundred if you want the added safety.

If you plan on staying N/A. A rebuild would ONLY be needed if you plan on making lots of power. Basically ANYTHING NOT boost or Nitrous related and you will be fine. If you want ALL the bolt ons and ins, ie cams, headers, ported intake, your motor the way it came from the factory is fine. Just start buying parts.

If you want to nitrous it, or boost it, yes, build the motor. It will let go someday. You could probably get away with a small 50 shot or maybe even a 100 shot, but get one bad batch of gas or miss a gear or something like that, bye bye weak bottom end. A forged bottom end is more forgiving, but making the motor last AND make power is ALL In the tune. Trust me, I have been down that road, both ways.

If you do full bolt ons and cams, I wouldn't spray over a 50 shot on the stock bottom end. With all that built by the right person it should make in the area of 370+rwhp. Throw a 50 shot and you are risking the bottom end at 420-430rwhp and probably a spike of 450-500rwtq. If you just want nitrous you can get away with a 100, but make sure you got the fuel system to do it.

Oh...and get some gears! 4.30s or higher!

[brown7]

figure forging would be safer than saving money and blowing 6grand on a charger and the motor. i mean im going to be deployed..that would be the most ideal time to drop at a shop and get motor work done.

gears i am considering..but like everyone else i question how much more gas im going to be losing. i like my trips to austin/houston maybe once a month. :woot2:

i only mentioned the oil pump because of the whole underdrive drama on m1r haha..

what about forging/stroking..how would that be compared to just forging/supercharing?

thanks

[NeverEnuff]

Good idea on getting it done while you are gone. Nothing like coming back to a beast that you missed and its 10x better! LOL. Too bad I never had that happen.

Anyway...you need to give me an end goal...what power do you want, track times...etc etc.

And gears don't lower your MPG...driving type does.

Even with 4.30s I got 23mpg...(full bolt on ported cammed Aviator motor)

[brown7]

ideal mods for me
-have to keep the car drivable rain/dry/snow.
-20+highway. ive driven one uhaul..i want to keep it that way.

400 is a pretty reasonable number..assuming tracktimes will come after that =)

guessing 12s is possible with that number? maybe high 11s?

[NeverEnuff]

You don't need to build your motor. You can get there with all bolt ons or a 100 shot. Very easy.

I did 363rwhp on a Aviator Stock long block (same as the mach 1, but with 9.7:1 compression) and with off the shelf parts, ie BBK L/Ts, O/R H, flowmaster cat back, lightly ported intake, and I mean lightly, wasn't even cut, T/B and K&N FIPK with 4.30 gears and Crower Stage III cams. Still got 22-23mpg in the interstate at 80+mph and high teen intown.

For that goal. Stay away from boost. Don't need the hassle that goes with it....N/A is way more fun. Harder to make power, and more expensive...but less maintenance.

[brown7]

sounds alright.. realisticly im never going to save 6grand for anything nice because of the wife lol.

ill stick with tuner/gears maybe port the intake if i can get it next to nothing.

[NeverEnuff]

We can tackle the port on the intake after I get my welder AND compressor.

I would say just get a set of good cams, some good headers...like um...ARH. American Racing Headers...I have a set in my house, if you want to come by and check them out and hang out, have a brew or whatever, you are more than welcome to.

Just a good bolt on motor with cams, 350-360rwhp is cake...esp if you have me doing the little stuff to get that little hp out of it...;)

[brown7]

oh lawd thats nother thing.. headers are such a bitch!!

[01yellowgt]

For you all you need is Rods and Pistons.

It would be fine to find a good set of take out rods (ie forged from a cobra 03/04 or a rebuilt motor that someone is going billet to handle more power). Just make sure it wasn't due to failure why you are getting the parts so cheap. Find something, send me a PM or whatever and Ill let you know.

There is NOTHING wrong with your oil pump that comes in the Mach. Hell I should know. Ive had the same oil pump in my car for my 7000rpm N/A build, then the 450rwhp 7000rpms P1, 550rwhp-ish D1 build and the TT 650+rwhp 7000rpm build. WOrking just fine. Just make sure you get a good big and heavy blancer and you will be fine. You can also buy some billet gears for a few hundred if you want the added safety.

If you plan on staying N/A. A rebuild would ONLY be needed if you plan on making lots of power. Basically ANYTHING NOT boost or Nitrous related and you will be fine. If you want ALL the bolt ons and ins, ie cams, headers, ported intake, your motor the way it came from the factory is fine. Just start buying parts.

If you want to nitrous it, or boost it, yes, build the motor. It will let go someday. You could probably get away with a small 50 shot or maybe even a 100 shot, but get one bad batch of gas or miss a gear or something like that, bye bye weak bottom end. A forged bottom end is more forgiving, but making the motor last AND make power is ALL In the tune. Trust me, I have been down that road, both ways.

If you do full bolt ons and cams, I wouldn't spray over a 50 shot on the stock bottom end. With all that built by the right person it should make in the area of 370+rwhp. Throw a 50 shot and you are risking the bottom end at 420-430rwhp and probably a spike of 450-500rwtq. If you just want nitrous you can get away with a 100, but make sure you got the fuel system to do it.

Oh...and get some gears! 4.30s or higher!


+1 Got a hole in the intake from missing a gear....... shift fork broke that pass or the pass before.

[NeverEnuff]

oh lawd thats nother thing.. headers are such a bitch!!

Nah. They are cake. I have have a motor out in 3 hours and BBK headers in about the same time.

No big deal. Its cake. :banana:

[SeeingRed]

I did headers on a Mach once and it took me the better part of six hours. But i learned the tricks as I went. I could probably also do it in about four hours.